www.scantips.com

A Performance Calculator for S&P 500 Index Funds

Concerned with Retirement Adequacy and Withdrawal Safety

The 4% Rule was about investing in balanced funds (perhaps a 60/40 fund, 60% stock mixed with 40% bonds), but my interest was in the suitability of a 4% Rule for withdrawals from a 100% S&P 500 fund. This article is intended as a guide about planning a safe and sustainable investment and retirement withdrawal plan from a S&P 500 Index fund that would survive typical bad market times (like those which have actually happened). The long term overall rewards are well worth it.

Withdrawals cost far more than just the dollars withdrawn. It also costs all the substantial long term future compounded earnings those withdrawal dollars could have earned. That compounding over the years is a mighty big deal. My opinion of the best plan is of course to start early to have the years, and postpone all withdrawals until retirement, so the fund will continue growing, and will be there when actually needed. Then (if you have planned it early enough) withdrawing what's needed to supplement Social Security. It's only reasonable to plan for affording long term care too, but hoping to be able to leave that to the kids instead. The point here is about the valid concern that continuous withdrawals during earlier years or during bear market downturns (before the fund has grown to be able to afford the withdrawals too) could deplete a fund, ending it prematurely, not lasting until needed for retirement.

Withdrawal Survival Depletion Test

The 2nd calculator is the Withdrawal Survival Depletion Test (below the S&P 500 calculator) which performs an examination for S&P 500 Index funds to show how market drops and/or withdrawals have survived in the past bad bear market history typical of the real world over the last 50 years. The Depletion Test runs about 5o times, automatically restarting at every starting year of the 50 years, and uses your fund and withdrawal amounts. The main calculator will of course show any withdrawal depletion crashes for data you enter, but then the Depletion Test tests your withdrawals at every years start over the 50 years (for example 2000 was not a good starting year, but that happens). Experiment a bit and you will see what it does.

The S&P 500 calculator and also the fund Withdrawal Survival Depletion Test below examines 50 years of historic S&P 500 returns. Don't miss that, there is a lot there. Both calculators use your input parameters, and there is also a list of guided Examples below to show the calculator options, which can compare and show the effect of the past history and very importantly, show the effect of withdrawals (4% or any others). It offers an interesting view about the years of market gains. It can also show compounding of gains over a multi-year period, including the effect of withdrawals or additional investment.

But there is also a lot more here. This page is just the calculators (and some history statistics), but the page was far too long as one page, so the introductory material describing the S&P 500 and the market and the 4% Rule was reluctantly moved to a second page at A few Market Things you need to know if you don’t already. If you are new to the market, it's there if you want to see it.

You certainly might be interested in a performance comparison of 100+ stocks and funds. You can also add a few ticker choices of your own there.

My suggestion is: Plan decades early for retirement, because many years of compounding is your best tool. Reinvest all dividends and don't withdraw anything until retirement. Then the final amount available at retirement might be a huge pleasant surprise. Relatively massive withdrawals might be possible during retirement if there were enough investing years (see the Example 4 below).

We can't know future performance, however the overall S&P annual gain has always averaged about 10% a year, even more in its good years, but then with losses in a few bad years. Multiple bad years in a row, combined with fund withdrawals can crash a fund. We have had some pretty bad times since 1979, 1972-74, 1981-82, 2000-03, 2008, the pandemic in 2020, and of course 2022. We cannot repeat those past years, but the same kind of periodic market crashes have always happened, so the past is good as typical examples, and are still routinely expected now and then (the bitter with the sweet, which averages out, and the sweet wins). If your withdrawal strategies survives those past times, it likely survives any future times too. If your withdrawals don't deplete the account when down, then it always recovers, and the good times are sweet. We can't see the future, but the calculator below computes "how much" occurred in past "typical" bad crashes. You might plan for some of it by having more fund money in the fund, and by eliminating withdrawals, especially during bad market times.

Withdrawal Strategies

Withdrawals as dollar amounts can be dangerous, fixed amounts need to be adjusted lower when the market is down, because a fixed dollar amount can seriously deplete the account when low. For example, withdrawals of only $200 per month (foolishly starting at first year) depletes this S&P 500 fund in 14 starting years since 1970 (meaning, withdrawing soon after starting, before it grows, or in low periods, are dangerous). Withdrawals of course reduce your investment, and it should be obvious that also seriously reduces your future compounded gains. The good plan is to add more investment all along instead of reducing it. So let your investment grow for maybe 30 years, and only start withdrawing at retirement, and that becomes an extremely different picture, and surely matches your retirement goals better too.

Withdrawing a percentage amount (percentage dollars adjusted every year, to be same percentage) is less dollars when low and more when high, but even 10% withdrawal starting at first year does not fail (but withdrawals that about match the growth rate also does not grow either).

So be sure to see Example 6 (at end below, but you can also click it here). No withdrawals, but it started in 2000 (the Lost Decade) at the start of the worst 10 year decade which overall lost 0.3% (no resulting gain).

But also be sure to see Example 8 to show the better idea about investing for retirement, and then the retirement withdrawals which also started in 2000.

There are several guided examples below. More money in the fund (after it grows) will always last longer, but technically, if no withdrawals, the fund does not go bust in the bad periods even if starting with only $300 in 1970 (the Lower Limit of $100 that defines Depletion can affect that test result).

The S&P 500 had 70 record high closes in 2021, but the last record high close was 3 Jan 2022 at 4796.56 (this chart reached $5 Million then, end of 2021). But when the market is down, cashing in at that point simply makes the loss be real and permanent. So sit tight, and it always eventually recovers and continues growth. While it is low now is the time to invest more, before that recovery gain.

See the S&P 500 daily market action, including some past S&P 500 record highs.

2023 is an incomplete partial year so Annualized Return cannot be computed for the current year. The other years represent the full year end values and show the Annualized Return of the span.

S&P 500 History

Price Gain $	Dividend $	Net fund value $	Gain + Div $	Date	Div %	Year	S&P yr Close $	Price gain %
Price Gain $	Dividend $	Net fund value $	Gain + Div $	Date	Div %	Year	S&P yr Close $	Price gain %
				8-Dec-23	1.36	2023	4604.37
				31-Dec-22	1.33	2022	3839.50
				31-Dec-21	1.82	2021	4766.18
				31-Dec-20	2.14	2020	3756.07
				31-Dec-19	2.61	2019	3230.78
				31-Dec-18	1.86	2018	2506.85
				31-Dec-17	2.41	2017	2673.61
				31-Dec-16	2.42	2016	2238.83
				31-Dec-15	2.11	2015	2043.94
				31-Dec-14	2.30	2014	2058.90
				31-Dec-13	2.79	2013	1848.36
				31-Dec-12	2.59	2012	1426.19
				31-Dec-11	2.11	2011	1257.60
				31-Dec-10	2.28	2010	1257.64
				31-Dec-09	3.01	2009	1115.10
				31-Dec-08	1.49	2008	903.25
				31-Dec-07	1.96	2007	1468.36
				31-Dec-06	2.17	2006	1418.30
				31-Dec-05	1.91	2005	1248.29
				31-Dec-04	1.89	2004	1211.92
				31-Dec-03	2.30	2003	1111.92
				31-Dec-02	1.27	2002	879.82
				31-Dec-01	1.15	2001	1148.08
				31-Dec-00	1.04	2000	1320.28
				31-Dec-99	1.51	1999	1469.25
				31-Dec-98	1.91	1998	1229.23
				31-Dec-97	2.35	1997	970.43
				31-Dec-96	2.70	1996	740.74
				31-Dec-95	3.47	1995	615.93
				31-Dec-94	2.86	1994	459.27
				31-Dec-93	3.02	1993	466.45
				31-Dec-92	3.16	1992	435.71
				31-Dec-91	4.16	1991	417.09
				31-Dec-90	3.46	1990	330.22
				31-Dec-89	4.44	1989	353.4
				31-Dec-88	4.21	1988	277.72
				31-Dec-87	3.22	1987	247.08
				31-Dec-86	4.05	1986	242.17
				31-Dec-85	5.40	1985	211.28
				31-Dec-84	4.87	1984	167.24
				31-Dec-83	5.29	1983	164.93
				31-Dec-82	6.79	1982	140.64
				31-Dec-81	4.82	1981	122.55
				31-Dec-80	6.65	1980	135.76
				31-Dec-79	6.13	1979	107.94
				31-Dec-78	5.50	1978	96.11
				31-Dec-77	4.32	1977	95.1
				31-Dec-76	4.69	1976	107.46
				31-Dec-75	5.65	1975	90.19
				31-Dec-74	3.25	1974	68.56
				31-Dec-73	2.71	1973	97.55
				31-Dec-72	3.35	1972	118.05
				31-Dec-71	3.52	1971	102.09
				31-Dec-70	3.91	1970	92.15
				31-Dec-69	2.86	1969	92.06
Gain $	Dividend $	Net fund value $	Gain + Div $	Date	Div %	Year	S&P yr Close $	Price gain %
Gain $	Dividend $	Net fund value $	Gain + Div $	Date	Div %	Year	S&P yr Close $	Price gain %

Chart bottom summary row: Withdrawn sum values are shown in BLUE. Left side of bottom row are column Sums. On right side are column simple Averages (of individual years), of all rows 1970-2022, except 2023 which is an incomplete year. Annualized Return of the year spans are shown in the Withdrawal Survival Depletion table next below.

Price gain does not include reinvested dividends or compounding. This charts overall price gain is near 50x, but the overall value gain is about 250x.

Just to be clear, columns 3 & 4 on bottom summary row may contain two lines itself. Note that column 1 and 2 (withdrawals) are very thin if empty.

Investment sums that were added are on the bottom row column 3 summary top line, in black text.
Any Non-Dividend sums withdrawn in column 3 are on the column 3 summary bottom line, in color BLUE
Dividends added (black) and withdrawals (BLUE) in column 4 are similarly shown summed on the column 4 summery lines.

S&P 500 Gain History since 1970 is seen below. Even if 2022 performance lessens the effect (the 2000's decade was worse, but the market has always recovered), do see Example 4 below for a realistic view of maybe best case of a $25K investment (S&P 500 growth for 30 years, followed by $5K per month ($60K per year) withdrawals continuing in 25 years of retirement).

There may be some unavoidable precision loss. Withdrawals and deposits and fund fees are calculated here to be from the actual previous year end result values, but those actions do occur on intermediate days during the year. However the price gains plus dividends do have the year end annualized factual summary data, and the calculator does appear to be pretty close to actual final past fund results. The S&P funds match the same S&P dividend percentage proportionately. The "Gain + Div" column is just the sum of the years gains, but Dividend is not included in the fund if it is instead withdrawn.

All chart values are year end values except for 2023 being a partial year. We don't know the current years final dividend percentage until we know the end of the year price. Events within the year can be exciting, but some of the intermediate history and larger changes might be hidden, since only the year end is shown. For example, the 2020 pandemic dropped to -34% in March, but recovered a new record high in five months, and to +16% at year end. There was also a sudden -18% drop 12/24/2018, but it recovered in a week to only to a -6% drop at year end, and its rapid total recovery of course continued to new record highs over four months.

Fund expense fees may seem tiny and negligible, but that percentage is every year as it grows and compounds. Enter your S&P 500 Index fund fee as zero to see the difference it makes after accumulating many years. S&P 500 funds with a very small fund fee are available and advantageous, and less expense is an earning plus. I like the Vanguard VFIAX fund, with a 0.04% fee, which is $400 on one million, each year.

Fund Withdrawal Survival Depletion Test Results

The Test Mode computes starting an S&P 500 fund in many past years (computes 53 starting years with sup to 1431 year situations if no depletion failures) and watches for the fund going bust due to specified withdrawals during past market crashes. The future is of course unknown, but this is what has happened in the past. This can show the possible real effects to be ready for. The 1970s and 2000s were not good times, however we survived it, and the other years, and the last dozen years, have mostly done quite well.

The Lowest Year Value is of course typically near the starting year, but withdrawals or a later crash can lower it too. Every start year from 1970 on is shown, which can show overall fund gain results when starting any year (including any withdrawals or investments specified above). The future will be different, but we might expect similar events, sometime.

The Depletion Test shows results of All start years since 1970, but the calculator shows only its one start year. >But for example, if the Test says 2000 to 2008 goes bust, you can also run the calculator manually from any Start Year of interest (like that 2000) to reproduce the intermediate year details of the results of any start year failure.

Total Return is the Final Fund Value with any withdrawals added back to a total. It is the return made available to you, both already received, and that can still be withdrawn.

The Annualized Return is the hypothetical calculated fixed interest rate (accurate, except it did not actually happen that way, but the result is the same) so if that same fixed interest rate were paid in each of those years (like a fixed interest bank account, for comparison purposes), the compounding will produce the same total final dollar result. It makes a more comprehensible comparison. The annualized return includes the value of any withdrawals (if any) during the span as income returns.

NOTE: 2023 is not yet a complete year, so the future is unknown, so it cannot be annualized yet, and is omitted from the Depletion Test. All other years use their year end result.

Any withdrawals and the starting investment are as currently specified in the calculator above. And then the Total Value field is the sum of the withdrawals and final fund value. Withdrawal columns are not shown in table below if none.

Here's a quick look at the history summary of past S&P market action, a "Decade Table" in five and ten year periods. The top row 2020 period does Not include 2023 (is an incomplete partial year) and is only three years. Just the two years 2020-2021 computes 23% Annualized gain, which was real good, but 2022 was definitely Not. Also the first half of the 1970s and all of the 2000s were pretty bad times.

S&P 500 Decade Summary

S&P 500 gains and annualized gains from $25,000 in 1970,
with reinvested dividends, and no withdrawals

"Annual Gain" here is Annualized Gain, same overall gain result,
but AS IF it were this fixed rate gain every year

The first half of the 1970s, and all of the 2000s, were an ordeal to suffer through (and lost years), but then when corrected, the times got great. 2022 was also quite bad, but maybe it won't take so long to correct it this time. Much tech is doing very well this year, but many good companies are still even more negative.

Percentage Gain % =

New value - Old value
Old value

× 100

((1 + Percentage Gain/100)^{1/n years}) - 1) × 100 = % Annualized gain,
as if each year is this equal fixed gain.

Annualized math example from the top row above:
Convert Percentage Gain 25.1% to 0.251x, to be
( (1 + 0.251)^1/n - 1) × 100 = 7.75% annualized if n = 3 years.
Which reversed means 7.75% gain for 3 years is 1.0775³ = 1.251x growth - 1 = 25.1% gain. See more details.

All this data is history, Not the future, but it has all happened, and similar possibly could happen again. The -11% and 2% five year dips shown are at the ending value of the five year periods. The worst of those multi-year negative dips reached about -50% in 1973, 2000, and 2008, but recovered somewhat by the end of the five year interval shown in this table. The bottom on 12 Oct 2022 was -25%. Much better financial rules seem to be in place now to help the market now, but all five year periods are Not alike, and some could include bad market times (it is called "risk" and we do still have politicians in Congress). Still, if it is a worthy investment, hang in there, it does routinely recover, always has, with good gains long term. Even with a few seriously bad years, if without withdrawals, the cumulative long term compounding effect should be evident and mighty impressive.

Retirement: Maybe 30 or 40 years seems a long time away, but nevertheless, realize that the need for money will still be extremely important during your retirement. Because retirement typically means no more job or salary, so you will need planned investment savings to live on. You might have maybe 20 to 40 more years during retirement too, but the early investment grown large can continue growing during retirement too. So realize retirement age is definitely coming, and planning for it now would be very wise, and maybe allow travel and cruises then too. There are obvious advantages of having sufficient money during retirement. You might be able to plan for this in later life, however the compounding of many years of Time will be your overwhelmingly Best Investment Tool, or your Worst Wasted Loss if you wait and ignore it. So start now while you still have time for it to work. It will be too late after you need it. Realize the importance of the goal, and keep your eye on the prize. Bigger plans are possible, but an easy way is that if just $10,000 were put into a S&P 500 Index fund (for example VFIAX) in 1980 (40 years ago) and left untouched (during good times and bad), it would be $1+ Million now, in spite of a few seriously bad times (S&P does always recover). The time takes care of it. The best plan is to start early and leave it alone and withdraw nothing until retirement needs make it necessary. Of course, adding a little to it all along is a very good thing too (especially in down markets, to buy low).

The Message again: Start Very Early, decades before you will need money for retirement. And until retirement, leave it untouched and working.

Withdrawals (including Dividends) are a Huge long term Cost

Speaking here of STOCK or Fund dividends, NOT of dividends from directly held BONDS (meaning, not in a bond fund). Bonds pay an interest rate on the face price of the bond, but stock dividends come from the company's value. The stock dividend is that the company or fund has earned profit, and you as a stock owner are receiving a distribution of profit, which then reduces the company's value and stock price by the same amount.

How Stock and Fund Dividends Work

It's a huge mistake to think of stock dividends as New income to be withdrawn. Stock and fund dividends are instead simply a withdrawal of your own prior gains. That withdrawal becomes realized gain and is taxed, and the withdrawal reduces the existing investment value by the same dollar value. The dividend is simply a withdrawal from your earned investment. But dividend reinvestment will put it back (as additional free shares) to keep the same investment value. You should know the whole picture.

The same withdrawal is also true of bond fund dividends, but is Not a withdrawal from directly owned bonds, which pay simple interest and are redeemed at maturity at the full face value.

A company's publicly held capitalized value is their number of existing stock shares multiplied by one share's price value. Apple's value this way computes to be $2+ Trillion. The idea of the dividend is to distribute some of the company profit to the stock owners as "realized gain". The dividend money paid out (as a few dollars per share) was subtracted from the company's value, as a cash payment to you. This withdrawal reduces the company's value by millions, so the stock price (which reflects the remaining value of the company) is automatically and equally reduced by the same dollars per share when the dividend is paid. Due to that corresponding stock price drop, your value sum (of the paid dividend and your remaining stock value) remains exactly the same sum value as before the dividend, i.e., there is no gain on that day. Yes, the stock price did drop, and the fund value dropped, but you did not lose anything either — You already owned that stock distributing the dividend, and you do have that cash difference now (in your pocket, no longer in the stock value). It was simply a withdrawal, leaving a reduced remaining investment. There is no gain and no loss, not from the dividend on that day, but future gain will be reduced. The distribution was just from the company's stock value that you already owned before, but now is instead transferred to your cash. The best and most optimal thing to do is to reinvest that dividend, which retains today's fund value, and it will also become additional shares for greater future compounded growth.

Dividends are NOT New income. Dividends are simply a withdrawal of some prior unrealized gain, reducing your fund value by the same dollar amount. But if reinvested, then each 1% dividend gives you 1% new free shares (like 4 times a year), which is a huge long term plus.

Another page here has much more detail about stock and fund dividends. It also tells the way you can reinvest stock dividends.

Compared to "What Could Have Been", withdrawals from funds, including dividend withdrawals, can cost much more loss than you might imagine, and might even be a fatal bust in bad market times. True of any withdrawals, but the setup of selecting dividend withdrawal likely continues forever unchanged. You might enjoy receiving a small withdrawal a few times a year, but should be horrified when you realize the actual total cost lost easily can reach many times what you received.

This next example is the S&P 500 Index fund started with $25000, from start of the year shown through 2022. Without any additional investment, but the reinvested dividend adds several shares. S&P 500 dividends vary but the ballpark is maybe 2%, but it is every year, every quarter usually. But the really big thing is that dividend dollars is number of added shares, so the growing investment becomes a large value long term. Data from the S&P 500 table above, including 2023.

Withdrawing dividends (WD) is extremely costly to the long term fund income

End date of each row is current date 2023.
Some of the millon dollar values omit the $ to minimize screen width.

S&P 500		No withdrawals		Overall Cost of Withdrawing all Dividends
$25K Start	Yrs	Fund Value No WD	Dividends reinvestd	Fund Value after WD	Dividend Withdraw	End Value Fund + WD	Cost of Withdrawals

Quarter after quarter, the withdrawn dividends reduced the fund value and the funds future gains, which then long term, also seriously reduces the dividends and your future net worth in retirement.

The cost of withdrawals (WD) is the money "that could have been" (if left reinvested) minus the money actually remaining available when withdrawn.

WD Cost % =

(Final value w/No WD) - (WD + Final value after WD)
Final value with No WD

× 100

This also applies to any stock or fund, and any continual withdrawal. Withdrawals are the intended plan after retirement. And perhaps there could be true necessities before retirement, but withdrawals before retirement come at a high cost.

Long term, reinvesting dividends is a major part of S&P earnings. THE major part depending on definitions. That ought to get your attention. Do you really need to withdraw that (about 2+%) dividend each year, or would it (and its compounded future earnings) be better used at retirement? You might not be aware how very expensive that gets long term, but it certainly does, and there are choices. Reinvesting the dividend would add its additional shares every year for considerably more growth every year, greatly affecting final income for retirement. The exact gain values depend on market performance in the past decades, but that's true withdrawn or not, so the degree of cost of Withdrawal Loss depends on the years of duration of the compounding gains.

So don't imagine that withdrawing dividends is withdrawing new income. It's just a withdrawal of your own money. Withdrawing dividends lowers the fund value, same as does any equal withdrawal. In case it is not obvious enough, withdrawals reduce all future gains. Any withdrawal of same amount and timing will have the same numbers. Once in a Blue Moon might be a different story, but continuous withdrawals are too expensive except in retirement when that is the whole intended need and planned purpose. The reported year gains can only compute the same numbers the same way. Every single digit in this table is the same for any withdrawal of the same amount. The compounding of the fund gains does work well if having the dollars to work with.

But withdrawing dividends is different from simple withdrawals, because reinvesting dividends does add free shares. The dividend also reduces stock price proportionately (reinvested or not), but reinvesting compensates with the new shares, Not changing the fund value on that first day. Simple withdrawals do change value, removing shares, permanently. Reduced price by dividends and reduced shares by simple withdrawals are (if same withdrawal amount) the same fund value that first day. However price does continually vary but shares don't (usually), so the difference in the future is large.

So if you're going to invest, then do that, and leave it there until retirement, and watch it grow.

Fund Fees: The fees are also a continuous withdrawal. Try entering your fund fee as zero to see the difference that compounding of lost earnings cost there. Be sure you are entering the correct fee for your specific S&P fund (fees do vary significantly). The cost of the fee every year is much more than just the fee. It also continues to cost the lost earnings on it every year, compounded over the years. You definitely want to find a low fund fee.

The compounding over many years makes the long term expense of regular withdrawals become extremely high, compared to "what could have been". As the withdrawal percent increases, the fund value decreases so then it earns less, and so the dollar amount of any percentage withdrawal total also drops. The 2% case is comparable to just withdrawing all the S&P 500 dividends, the effect is the same. It should be a sobering thought. I don't mean to be preachy, but awareness is my goal. At least evaluate the actual need first. Just because it is there seems the worst reason to withdraw it. The best reason for withdrawals to wait is that your need is likely greater at retirement time. A common purpose of mutual funds is of course for the withdrawals to support retirement, but that idea is to first invest for 20 or 30 years without withdrawals to build up the fund, so you can have something to withdraw in retirement. You can take action on that NOW. Do realize that you are not simply subtracting the withdrawals. The big deal is that you are also subtracting all the years of compounded gains those withdrawals could have earned (which is a hugely larger number). The better idea is to let the fund accumulate something first. See Example 8 below.

The magic of the gains is that the growth is compounded, with the gains earning more gains, year after year, increasing dramatically after a couple of decades. But continuous withdrawals are a real big thing affecting a fund, reducing the gains and the compounding, again over many years. If you withdraw more, you get much less. You can see the result yourself in the calculator above. Imagine investing $25,000 one initial time in a S&P 500 fund for 50 years (historic S&P 500 data from 1970). That span could be at your age 25 to 75. If you're young, you need to realize those many available years are the huge magic opportunity, which diminishes if you wait. Just ten years might be impressive, but 50 years is simply awesome.

Just to be clear, withdrawals during retirement are certainly an expected main purpose of the market funds, but earlier withdrawals are detrimental to that possible "what could have been" retirement income. This is especially true during long term, when the compounding can make so much difference.

These are just some examples from past history, but it is suggestive of the way things work, and the things that possibly (or typically) can happen in the future. There are noticeably more good years than bad, and the S&P 500 has always averaged about 10% annual gains, but there are a few down years. The bad times might last a year or two, and might drop 50%, but they have always fully recovered (2009 was special and took several years though). Withdrawing the money when it is down in bad times is the worst thing to do, because it absolutely guarantees that the loss becomes real and permanent. Instead adding more investment money when the market is low is a great opportunity offering large gains when the price recovers (buy low, sell high). Hang in there, stay the course. It can seem dark and gloomy and fearful at the time, but withdrawing all money then ends it all (and makes the loss very real). But the market has always recovered to continue the gains.

Also see next pages:

Compare performance of 100+ stocks

General info describing S&P 500, the market, the 4% Rule, dividends and bonds, etc.

Compounding and Annualized Return, and calculators

Stock Dividends are valuable, but withdrawing them is Not new income

S&P 500 daily Action, and Count of annual S&P 500 record highs