The normal procedure of preparing images does not need a calculator like this. This is a good one, I've never seen one similar to it, but it is redundant in that it's far easier to just learn a few things and then do it using your photo editor and your scanners program too. That's the way it is done. If the calculator helps, that's good, but you will still have to go to your photo editor to actually do it. The purpose of this calculator is to explain it, to help you get started on the basics.
Very few (if any) print paper sizes will be the same SHAPE as your camera image. This is NOT speaking of SIZE, SIZE is easier. For example maybe your image is 6x4 inches SHAPE but your paper is 5x4 inches SHAPE, and that will never work out right by itself. SHAPE is described as Aspect Ratio, see the Red samples below. We can adjust the SIZE, but have to CROP the image SHAPE to match the print paper. Do realize that 4x6, 5x7, 8x10 or 8.5x11 inch papers are each a different SHAPE (and your 16:9 TV screen is yet another SHAPE). Preparing your image for which SHAPE you want to show is what this is about.
The first step that then makes it all easy is to simply realize that digital images are nothing but a collection of pixels. A pixel is nothing but a specification for a very tiny dot having only its individual color declaration. The first fact to know is that if you have an image dimension of 3000 pixels and you print it at 300 dpi (300 pixels per inch), it will cover (3000 pixels / 300 dpi) = 10 inches. For that reason, if you want to print 10 inches, then you need 3000 pixels. That's quite simple and it will be easy, you only have to think a second.
Another page here is about pixels. And there is also yet another page about the Resizing digital images for viewing purposes (see its second page too), including printing or HD TV screens, but also try the second page here.
The dimension in pixels (Image Size) is the important detail for using any image. Around 300 pixels per inch is the optimum and standard proper printing goal for color photographs. 200 dpi can sometimes be marginally acceptable printing quality, but more than 300 dpi is not of use to printers (for color photos), because our printers are not designed to do more for color work and our eyes cannot see greater detail (color work). Many local 1-hour photo lab digital machines are usually set to print at 250 pixels per inch, but it won't hurt to always provide pixels to print 300 dpi. 250 to 300 dpi is a reasonable and optimum printing resolution for color photos. However Line Art mode (two colors, black ink on white paper, like text or cartoon lines) is normally better scanned and printed at 600 dpi.
FWIW, I'm old school, and I learned the term for printing resolution was "dpi", so that's second nature to me. Dpi has simply always been the name of it. Some do call it ppi now, pixels per inch, which is what it is, same thing. Ink jet printers do have their own other thing about ink drops per inch which they also named dpi, but which is about the quality of dithering colors (to color each pixel, to be one of 100s of thousands of different colors created using only four colors of ink), but that is Not about image resolution. But here, we're speaking of images, about printing resolution of image pixels, which ink jets also have to do.
The dpi calculator is below, but first, some things you need to know. There are two situations when printing images, depending on if using one hour print shops or home printing.
If your image dimensions are too large, the photo shop will first resample it to this smaller requested size. That's not necessarily a problem, except a far too-large image will be slow to upload. Or, if too small (insufficient pixels provided), the print quality will be lower, and the lab may refuse worst cases. But if the provided image shape does not match the paper shape, the excess image outside the paper edges simply disappears, and results may not be what you expected (like the heads-cut-off problems you may have seen).
At home, most photo editors will also provide an option to "Scale to fit media" or "Best fit to page", which will scale the image to fit the specified paper size (similar to the labs above). This can be borderless if so specified in the printer Properties. This scaling will print at a new dpi which will fit the paper size. But it will not necessarily fit the paper "shape", which requires cropping attention done by you.
Regardless if you print them yourself at home or send them to a one hour shop doesn't matter. You have to prepare them for print either way, in the same way. The purpose of this page is to describe what you need to know.
Images have both size and shape properties. The image "shape" (which is width / height, called Aspect Ratio) likely rarely matches the paper "shape", so which always needs attention first. When the print and paper shapes differ, a print shop "fit" typically fills all of the paper, fitting one dimension to leave no unfilled white space border in the other. A home photo editor "fit" typically is the opposite by default, not cropping at all, but leaving thin white space in one dimension if it doesn't fit precisely.
Either way, it is good if your plan properly prepares the image for printing. Sufficient pixels is important, but first cropping the image so that the image SHAPE actually matches the selected paper SHAPE is also a very important concern. Different paper sizes are different shape. And we need to provide the necessary pixels. The simple calculation for that acceptable image size for printing is:
(The actual dpi calculator is below). Here, this is all about SIZE, and does not yet mention about need to match SHAPE to the paper's SHAPE. This first simple calculator will serve these general purposes:
Scan at 600 dpi, print at 300 dpi, for 600/300 = 2X size (to print double size or 200% size)
Scan at 300 dpi, print at 300 dpi, for 300/300 = 1X size (to print original size or 100% size)
Scan at 150 dpi, print at 300 dpi, for 150/300 = 1/2X size (to print half of original size or 50% size)
Extreme dpi is for enlargement of small things. Scan small 35 mm film at 2700 dpi, print at 300 dpi, for 2700/300 = 9X size. If from full frame 35 mm film (roughly 0.9 x 1.4 inches), then 9X is about 8x12 inches (near A4 size). That is a proper goal.
But caution, if you scan a 8.5x11 inch paper at 2700 dpi, you will have 2.045 Trillion bytes of image, which will be a huge problem until you delete it.
For any image, if you specify an 8x10 inch print at the one hour print shops, you will get 8x10 inches regardless of what image content area they have to crop off to to do it, if the paper and the image are not the same shape (same Aspect Ratio). But if you crop it to the right shape first yourself when you can see what you're doing and choose the final view, there will be no surprises. This is Not much burden, it is selecting the best choice. And also quite important, adjusting cropping a bit more often improves many images by eliminating objectionable areas, even such as the blank wasted space surrounding the subject, but that adds nothing you want to show. That crop also makes the subject larger in the final frame.
At home, if you both scan and then print at the same dpi, it will print a copy at the same original size. 300 dpi will be a great number for a high quality photo print. Photos are best printed at 300 dpi on a photo quality printer and on actual photo paper. Black and white text pages are a bit better at 600 dpi.
Scanning to print a copy at the same size is a very common goal. It's important to realize that an area scanned at 300 dpi will create the pixels necessary to also print the same size at 300 dpi. And 300 dpi is likely what you want for a photo copy job.
Enlargement is done by increasing the scan resolution. For example, scanning at 600 dpi will give sufficient pixels to print 2x larger at 300 dpi. Scanning at 600 dpi, printing at 300 dpi will be double the size in inches. Or scanning at 150 dpi and printing at 300 dpi will be half size.
The one-hour print shops will be different. They do accept larger images, and will crop to any shape you specify, ignoring the picture content. So if you want to define the expected picture content, you will need to first crop it yourself as desired. Many of their machines are set to use 250 dpi, which should be very satisfactory.
But this dpi number does NOT need to be exact, 10% or so variation won't have great effect on quality. Just scale it to print size. But planning size to have sufficient pixels to be somewhere near the size ballpark of 250 to 300 pixels per inch is a very good thing for printing photos. However an exception: Black & White text documents or line art (one color of ink or blank) can be improved at 600 dpi.
Long dimension fitted |
Short dimension fitted |
The calculator uses the Short or Long nomenclature
You can try both, but there is an actual real solution |
Preparing the image shape to fit the paper shape is necessary, because paper and image are often different shapes.
Aspect Ratio is the SHAPE of the image — the simple ratio of the images long side to its short side, which is a shape, maybe long and thin, or short and wide. Image aspect ratio is important, to properly fit on the paper (or in an area on it or the HD TV screen). We generally must crop the image to fit the paper, to know it is going to fit. Every paper size seems to be a different shape too. Shape and size are two different properties. To print an image, we can always enlarge the Size, but the image shape needs to match the paper shape (which is done by cropping). If this Aspect Ratio is a new subject, see Image Resize - Aspect.
It's necessary to crop the image shape to fit the paper shape, because otherwise the printer will crop it in surprising ways. When you crop it first, then you get what you wanted. Size is easily adjusted, but shape can only be cropped. You could wait for the printer machine to simply trim the image automatically (leaving whatever actually fits on the paper shape, without regard to the subject), but you will like the results better if you first choose the cropping yourself. It should be obvious that the shape of an 8x12 inch image simply cannot be fully fitted onto 8x10 inch paper. See Image Resize about how to plan this necessary resize and/or crop (specifically the second page there which has specific instruction about cropping image to match paper shape). That usual procedure is, FIRST crop image to paper SHAPE, and then resample image size to fit paper SIZE. Otherwise, printing will just cut off the part of the image that won't fit on the paper. Which could be a surprise you probably won't like. 😊 But this is all easy to do right.
If the image was previously cropped to be the same aspect ratio as the selected paper shape, then great, that's the idea. If not, the calculator will advise what the optimum cropped size should have been. Most one hour print shops won't leave any white space, and this calculator can do the same. However, before you print it, it would always be a really good thing if you had first prepared the image to fit the paper properly, both shape and size.
Scanning common film and paper print dimensions will be in the Scanner "Area" box below. Or you can specify any scan or print size.
Clicking a Compute button scrolls the screen down to the results, but if this jumping is objectionable, you can turn scrolling off.
If the Result text might not be meaningful yet, then start at this: Cropping, Resampling, Scaling. It's the basics of something we all need to know about printing images. The idea is not to simply compute some numbers, but to try to explain how you can already know this yourself. It's actually pretty simple.
Caution: When cropping and resampling your image for printing purposes, you should always save your original image for any future plans, because we do change our minds, but there's no going back. So always save such edits into a new file name. Don't overwrite your original image file, because then it is gone.
Your image aspect ratio rarely matches the paper aspect ratio, so more results are offered:
Possible text suggestion in the scanning options: The computed scan resolution for film possibly can result as like 2540 dpi, closely missing one of the scanners default multiples of 300, 600, 1200, 2400, 4800 dpi. It will show and use that number, but if the miss is pretty close and might be considered negligible, the calculator might also suggest for example, that scanning at 2400 dpi (instead of 2540) would still print the same size at perhaps 283 dpi, which likely cannot be distinguished from 300 dpi (see next page). Many one hour labs limit printing to 250 dpi anyway (but their continuous tone is better quality than an ink jets dithered reproduction). Again, it is just an alternate suggestion to be aware and possibly consider. You can also get the same information for different multiples in Option 3 by just trying a couple of values of available resolution.
Both Size and Shape are important, and while you're dealing with "crop to shape", why not also resample it to a much more reasonable size first? (see below).
Second page Printing basics that will be good to know.
Image Size is absolutely only about pixels, but file compression or the image mode of Color, or Grayscale, or Line art, or Indexed color, or Raw, all will make a big File size difference (bytes). See a calculator that will show these four sizes.